Sunday, January 23, 2011

Kenzo Menswear Fall 2011

Brilliant, just brilliant. Antonio Marras has delivered a masterful Fall 2011 collection for men. It is by far one of the largest collections and subtly innovates in so many ways. Bright and neutral colour combinations that defy logic and don't clash, patchwork pants that are definitely not shabby looking but damn stylish. Basically, there is something in this Kenzo collection for everyone and most importantly it is literally ready-to-wear, the looks can be taken straight off the runway. I am very impressed by this collection and I commend Kenzo for being a shining light this Fall.

Saturday, January 22, 2011

Louis Vuitton Menswear Fall 2011

There was very little I liked about Louis Vuitton's collection this season, apart from the three looks I have selected above. The clothing was nearly all black, the puffer jacket appeared far too frequently and the scarves left a lot to be desired. But what is left above is a very good effort and worthwhile giving appropriate consideration and praise. There is creativity, innovation and an ability to deliver on the classics. This is best demonstrated in the last picture (above). The band around the middle complements the male waist and acts as a kind of illusory belt. Certainly what is here is a triumph of design.

Yohji Yamamoto Menswear Fall 2011

The one and only Yohji Yamamoto

This collection is absolutely adorable and I mean that in the nicest way. It is not playful in the typical way, yet the clothing has the ability to convey a kind of carefree, earnest and joyful way of living life. The cut may be large and baggy, but this is not necessarily a bad thing, it is obviously both comfortable, functional and stylish. It is good to know that there are some truly brilliant talents in fashion who don't conform and get squashed into a particular look. Also, props to Yamamoto whose choice of models for the show also demonstrates his attitude towards men's fashion - a fashion for all.

Balmain Menswear Fall 2011

The man behind Balmain, Christophe Decarnin, has designed a very casual collection, full of layering, featuring hoodies, blazers, coats, scarves, jeans etc. I must admit there were some outfits that I did not like as the layering had been taken a bit too far and also the return of the flannelette shirt is not something I will be rejoicing over - it can be done well, but here it is not. Australians will understand my feelings towards this very controversial wardrobe item. Overall though, I'm glad there is a brand like Balmain around for men, who aren't perhaps interested in suits or a dressy look but still want to indulge in some kind of creative styling. 

Z Zegna Menswear Fall 2011

One may think it is easy to design and co-ordinate an outfit that is predominantly black, but it's not. There are different shades of black, different fabrics that change the look of black and of course the cut is also a factor. There wasn't a lot that stood out to me in the Z Zegna collection, but what did was the excellence of the black outfits, nearing perfection. I hope that they continue to develop their strengths and become a strong force in fashion.

Umit Benan Menswear Fall 2011

This collection is refreshing to say the least. I wanted to draw attention to it because it is quirky and one of the few designer labels that are doing something significantly different. You can tell from their choice of models that they cater for a wide range of ages within a niche style. It's great to see such inclusiveness and difference in men's fashion. 

Salvatore Ferragamo Menswear Fall 2011

Somehow Massimiliano Giornetti constantly delivers strong, classic, and colour complementary outfits for both men and women. This is what an Italian fashion label should be like as it epitomizes its country's style and way of living. It is smart casual, it is smooth, refined and laid back with the perfect balance of masculine and feminine touches. Congratulations to Salvatore Ferragamo - a consistent performer.